Wine bar and bottle shop One Trick Pony (OTP) is a radical departure from the big, bold barbeque Bluebonnet’s Chris Terlikar is known for. The neighbourhood spot, in the 140-year-old corner pub he originally moved Bluebonnet to in 2016, serves superior wines and an entirely gluten-free menu.

The IF Architecture-designed venue features two seating areas both downstairs and up. The beautiful wood-floored, cream-coloured space where the curves of the walls, columns and scalloped shelving make the shape of the building come alive. Odd-shaped mirrors and bespoke rail lighting with spherical lampshades hint at art deco, while the elegant bar is elephant-grey marble.

Booze manager Ben Skipper (ex-Vue de Monde, Estelle, Lagoon Dining) will probably be the first person you see when you arrive. With him, you’re in good hands in both the wine shop and the wine bar it leads to. But that’s not all it leads to – there’s a tiny bluestone cellar with perfect humidity and temperature for cellaring superior wines. If you’re moving on from wine, order a classic cocktail from the chrome drinks trolley, to be mixed right at your table.

Then, head upstairs to find an open kitchen turning out gluten-free dishes. You might start with slow-fermented tapioca flatbread torn and dunked into creamy labne and olive oil, or crisp potato rosti topped with caramelised onion and anchovy. For something heartier, there’s grass-fed beef on a bed of buttered cabbage with endive.

The artworks painted by Terlikar’s brother Joe don’t hang on the walls – they were handpainted directly onto them. Look around to find paintings of birds, recognisable Fitzroy North residences and famous local footy heroes (with strong moustache games). The light, bright walls of the wine bar and shop are the artist’s canvas, with the idea that he will continue adding different locally inspired works as the years roll on.