An elegant European brasserie from Andrew McConnell that defines Melbourne dining.

Gimlet at Cavendish House: The Return of the Dining Room

Gimlet feels like stepping into another era. The soaring ceilings, marble-topped bar and soft candlelight set a scene that’s pure elegance. The building itself, a restored 1920s landmark, carries the weight of history, while the dining room hums with quiet confidence. It’s formal but not fussy, a place that invites conversation and indulgence in equal measure.

Every detail, from the heavy cutlery to the crisp linen, signals intent. McConnell’s team hasn’t built a restaurant, they’ve revived the idea of the grand dining room — something Melbourne didn’t know it missed until Gimlet brought it back.

The Menu: European Luxury, Melbourne Restraint

The food is European at heart, with sharp Australian instincts. Start with oysters or a perfect martini, then move to wood-roasted meats and seafood cooked over flame. The southern rock lobster in bisque butter has become a signature, while the steak tartare, duck à l’orange and hand-rolled pasta show off technique without pretense. Each dish feels measured and timeless, more about balance than reinvention.

Portions are generous, plating restrained, and produce remains front and centre. It’s the kind of menu that rewards diners who take their time — every course is a chapter worth reading slowly.

Drinks, Detail and Decadence

The cocktail list, built around the namesake Gimlet, channels mid-century sophistication. Martinis arrive ice-cold in glassware that sparkles. The wine list is deep and worldly, curated for both collectors and casual drinkers, with strong representation from Victoria’s best producers alongside Burgundy, Champagne and Italy’s greats.

Gimlet is not about novelty. It’s about execution. About bringing back the art of dining well — the conversation, the service, the ritual. In a city obsessed with what’s next, Gimlet is a reminder that some things never go out of style.