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This small, modestly decorated restaurant sits on a stretch of road best known for horrendous traffic. Yet the food is entirely legit. Go for the excellent, generously stacked tacos: with pork *al pastor* and charred pineapple; slow cooked beef; and deep-fried flathead with cabbage slaw and chipotle mayo. Wash it all down with a Mexican beer or a classic Margarita.

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