Even though chic Italian eatery Lagotto sits beneath a modern apartment development, it feels as though it’s been there forever. It might have something to do with the fact that Milieu Hospitality (also behind Congress and Future Future) ran a pop-up at the site for six months prior to opening, to get a sense of what locals felt the area needed.

From the kitchen, head chef Matteo Fulchiati (ex-Osteria Ilaria) turns out an ever-changing menu of Italian classics done with creative Australian twists. Signatures include pillowy, wholemeal focaccia with molasses and brown butter; and a seafood spaghettoni. Other seasonal highlights have included King Fish crudo, followed by mains such as a Wagyu rump cap with collard greens, egg yolk and lemon. Finish with tiramisu with burnt chocolate coffee caramel for dessert.

To drink, there are around Italian-leaning cocktails, including a seasonal spritz and a Negroni. There’s also a solid selection of imported and locally produced amaro, and a wine list favouring minimal-intervention, biodynamic and organic drops sourced from Italian and Australian vineyards. And if there’s anything you really love from the drinks list, ask the friendly staff if it’s available to take away. There’s a thoughtful curation available from the in-house wine and liquor store.