Atta’s head chef and co-owner, Harry Dhanjal, is entirely self-taught. He and business partner Brij Patel also designed the Albert Park venue themselves, which is housed in a heritage-listed building, is almost gallery-like in feel. There are timber trusses running along the high ceiling, grand arched windows, and sleek modern photographs lining otherwise sparse walls.

At Atta, each dish is “indigenous” but elevated with new flavours and ingredients. One example is the sikandari raan, a dish dating to 300 BC that translates to Alexander’s Lamb (it is said to have originated as a dish at a feast for Alexander the Great). The sous-vide lamb is paired with Dutch carrots, herb potatoes and mint chutney. It’s served in dramatic fashion beneath a large bell jar.

Murgh tikka (chicken tikka) comes with baby spinach and coriander-infused oil, and for dessert the classic milk dumpling, gulab jamun, is done over with raspberry rosewater gel and vanilla ice-cream.

Serious drinkers won’t find too many thrills in the list of beer, wine and spirits, but all the basics are covered.