On the outskirts of South Melbourne Market, halfway between the giant paella stand and Melbourne’s most famous dim sims, you’ll find Bambu Asian Eating House. Sleek timber panels line the ceiling. An open kitchen and bar overlook clusters of communal dining areas (it seats 65 inside, 35 out). Sliding windows let the breeze and market vibes in.

The menu borrows liberally from across South East Asia, and very occasionally from beyond.

Highlights include the crispy-shell duck tacos (crispy wonton, not soft Mexican), smoky char kway teow noodles and a mild coconut-salmon sashimi. Nothing on the menu is over $20. Wallet-friendly beer, wine and cocktails are also available at lunch and dinner.

Out front, the Bambu Tuck Shop offers rushed market shoppers hawker-style bites to go, including grilled skewers, gua bao and dumplings.