Aoi Tsuki: From Lockdown Pop-Up to Luxe Omakase

During Melbourne’s lockdowns, a handful of exceptional takeaway sushi ventures emerged to fill the void left by shuttered dining rooms. Among the standouts was Aoi Tsuki, a humble North Melbourne operation launched by chefs Tei Gim and Jun Pak, who began boxing up premium sushi with remarkable finesse.

Two Masters, One Intimate Counter

Their résumés span some of Melbourne’s most prestigious Japanese restaurants — Kenzan, Shoya, Kisumé and Nobu — and that expertise now shines in full force at their permanent, high-end omakase restaurant in South Yarra. Intimate and theatrical, the 12-seat dining room offers a true omakase experience — no menus, no à la carte — just more than 20 courses, handpicked by the chefs and shaped by the day’s finest seafood.

Theatre and Banter Meet Culinary Precision

Twice a night, diners are treated to an immersive culinary performance. Spotlights frame the chefs at work behind the timber counter, with the moody, minimalist fit-out enhancing the sense of occasion. The playful back-and-forth between Gim and Pak — equal parts precision and wit — evokes the dynamic of a Tarantino double act, à la Hattori Hanzo and his apprentice. Don’t be afraid to join the banter or quiz them on their passion for nama sake — the barely pasteurised rice wine they pour with enthusiasm.

A Seafood Symphony, Course by Course

What unfolds on the plate is a masterclass in seafood — a changing lineup that could include delicately scored squid, creamy sea urchin, Yarra Valley salmon roe, King George whiting, Australian nannygai, kinmedai (golden eye snapper), paradise prawns from New Caledonia, and prized cuts of Tokyo-sourced bluefin tuna, from chu-toro to melt-in-your-mouth otoro.

Omakase With Unexpected Flourishes

And it doesn’t stop at sushi. There may be a theatrically blowtorched Wagyu finished with foie gras shavings, a comforting bowl of hand-pulled Inaniwa udon from Akita, and a refreshing shiso sorbet to close. Every visit is a unique journey — one where craft, conversation and curiosity collide.