With staff that look like they should be working at Scanlan & Theodore, Baker (as it is affectionately known by its customers) is instantly recognisable for its great packaging.

Luckily, the bakery’s style does not overshadow its substance – bread in Melbourne doesn’t get much better than this. The whole-wheat bread has nutritionists, food reviewers and enthusiasts flocking; at Easter the crowds demand hot cross buns; and the nougat is so popular you can now get it at The Essential Ingredient stores. Then there’s Chirico’s bestselling cannoli and bombolini, which regularly sell out before close each day.

With demand this high – and that’s before considering the orders from Melbourne’s best restaurants – the long baking hours provide the odd treat of a baked-fresh still-warm loaf mid-morning to take with you after you’ve devoured a raspberry frangipane tart and coffee.

A recipe from Baker D. Chirico is featured in The Broadsheet Italian Cookbook. Buy your copy at shop.broadsheet.com.au.