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Inside a former ice-cream store, this little slice of Venice is big on protein – woodfired in a Josper oven imported from Spain. But if you’re feeling pastas, varieties such as tagliolini and pappardelle are rolled in-house. It’s all served in a terrazzo-and-timber space that’s casual and contemporary at once.

Bar Carolina is from Joe Mammone (the restaurateur behind Il Bacaro and Sarti), designer Chris Connell and engineer Michael Amore. They transformed the former Carousel Ice Cream store into a little slice of Venice, with terrazzo floors out front and textural floorboards out back, handmade leadlights in an azure tint, and custom-made steelwork by Amore.

Mammone imported a woodfire Josper oven from Spain, and most of the mains a blast in it, such as the wild barramundi encrusted in salt and herbs, which comes wrapped in a little parcel that steams it in its own juice. A 700-gram rib-eye, aged for 60 days, is served simply with a scoop of seeded mustard.

If you’re not feeling meaty, pasta’s rolled out in-house. We recommend the tagliolino con crostacei, long flat ribbons of noodles with Moreton Bay bugs, porcini mushrooms and dried chilli on top. The most photogenic dish, however, is a perfect sphere of tiramisu – seemingly beamed in from the future – full of coffee, savoiardi, chocolate and mascarpone.

You could also just linger over a plateful of aged prosciutto and stracciatella, with a bottle of fiano.

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