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A pistachio-coloured gelateria from Coda and Tonka's Adam D'Sylva. In pozzetti beneath the colourful terrazzo countertop, there are rotating specials that might include tiramisu and Basque burnt cheesecake; flavours inspired by the chef's Italian-Indian heritage (sugared almond, and spicy chai); and a few very welcome curveballs.

Boca is a gelateria by chef and restaurateur Adam D’Sylva (Coda, Tonka) in collaboration with pastry chef Monika Frkovic.

Look for the pastel-hued shopfront on Upper Heidelberg Road, where large windows let a ton of light into a space splashed with many shades of green. There’s a colourful terrazzo counter and an archway at the back providing a glimpse into Boca’s day-to-day operations. Frkovic has run the gamut of frozen desserts in the past, but at Boca she’s sticking mostly to classic Italian flavours (with a few very welcome curveballs).

For the traditionalists, pistachio, coffee and bacio (chocolate-hazelnut) will always be available. They’re kept in pozzetti (stainless-steel drums) beneath the countertop alongside peanut butter, mint-choc chip and a very pale pink bubblegum gelato made with real Hubba Bubba.

Meanwhile, Frkovic uses the specials board to road-test some less traditional flavours. Tiramisu, Basque burnt cheesecake, pumpkin spice and liquorice have all made appearances in the past, but the menu rotates regularly.

And while D’Sylva’s leaving most of the menu development to Frkovic, he’s made a few additions highlighting his Italian-Indian roots. Representing one side is a heavily spiced chai gelato. And repping the other is Confetti, a slightly creamy sorbetti spiked with Jordan almonds. Gelato and sorbets can be served in cups or cones, or turned into shakes, with optional (but strongly recommended) toppings. They include house-made cookie crumbs, mini malt balls honeycomb and melted chocolate from the constantly flowing, built-in fountain.

In the freezer, find an array of different choc-tops, traditional tartufo (chocolate-coated gelato balls) and frozen cakes such as passionfruit Bombe Alaska.

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