Cutler & Co is the most formal restaurant in the Andrew McConnell stable, which includes Cumulus Inc., Marion and Supernormal. That’s not saying much, though. Fine-dining restaurants are more casual than they’ve ever been, and this one is no exception.

The à la carte menu is arranged much the same as that at Cumulus. It opens with small, refined snacks such as oysters; duck hearts with parsley and horseradish; and buckwheat pikelets with caviar.

Entrees and mains move onto proteins and fish paired with seasonal veggies and unusual flavours such as dandelion and sorrel. If you’re with a crowd, there are monster steaks or suckling pig to share.

But if you want to really emphasise the “fine” dining aspect of Cutler & Co (or just stretch your meal out) degustation is the way to go. It included six courses, with optional matched wines (our preference) selected from the vast, progressive list.