Collins Place is among Melbourne’s most iconic buildings, designed by master architect IM Pei (who’s also responsible for the Louvre’s striking glass-and-steel pyramid). Some 40 years have passed since it opened, but this beautiful all-day eatery from the team behind Earl Canteen is harking back to its ’80s and ’90s heyday.

Designed by Bergman & Co (Poodle Bar & Bistro, Chancery Lane), it’s awash with pastels and deep reds, giving it a truly grandiose feel. But the gauzy curtains shrouding many of the floor-to-ceiling windows add a sense of intimacy to the spacious venue.

By day, find everything from twice-baked fruit-and-almond croissants to all-inclusive breakfast sets made up of avocado toast with Bloody Mary-spiced tomato; yoghurt panna cotta; a soft boiled egg with seaweed salt; and coffee or tea.

Later, expect a muffuletta packed with ham, mortadella, sopressa salami, provolone and house pickles and a fresh spin on the classic caesar salad, souped up with crispy fried mortadella, and croutons made from the restaurant’s house-baked Gruyere scones

In addition to Industry Beans coffee, Dame serves mimosas and a few cocktails, including spicy Bloody Marys and verjuice spritzes.

Dame also happens to be the kind of place you’ll want to linger. Towards the pointy end of the week, it’s open till 7pm and serves bar snacks including baked camembert with grapes and melba toast, and “cloud” pikelets with stracciatella and salmon roe. There are also Victorian beers and wines available from the arvo.