Daughter in Law is vibrant with rose-coloured walls and plush, peacock-feather blue couches. Bollywood films from the ’70s and ’80s are screened on mute while disco favourites play at just the right volume – loud enough to fill the room, but never detracting from the main show: the food.

Beef tartare comes seasoned with dried mango powder and topped with pomegranate seeds in a crisp pappadum cup. The yoghurt kebab – owner, Jessi Singh’s best known dish – is a slightly sour yoghurt patty coated in salted breadcrumbs and fried, served on a sweet beetroot sauce. Another essential is Colonel Tso’s Cauliflower, a mound of fried sweet-and-sour (and pretty spicy) cauliflower.

Curry highlights include the kadhi (kale fritters in a slow-cooked turmeric-and-yoghurt sauce), the pork-neck vindaloo and a coconut curry with rockling. There’s also grilled dishes from the tandoor, including spare ribs and tandoori chicken with spiced yoghurt. A small range of generous naan pizzas – which are exactly what they sound like – round out the offering.

The drinks list is a considered selection of mainly Australian wines, with more or less equal weighting given to pét-nat, skin contact, reds and whites. The cocktails are playful, incorporating ingredients such as chutney, masala and mango. The Tandoori Tipple cocktail blends gin and cardamom syrup with pineapple that’s been fired in the tandoori oven.