The walls at Eat’aliano match the typical Italian bistro – vintage posters; shelves well stocked with liqueurs; and hanging cured meats. But then there’s that ceiling, strung with wooden crates filled with ferns, and bronze light fixtures that hang at table height. This is a place for only the hippest of nonnas.

You might see a few dining at Eat’aliano, conversing with owners Pino Russo (La Svolta) or Alessio Alia. Take a walk to the bathroom and you’ll hear other tables chatting in Italian while they munch on wood-fired Naples-style pizza.

The pizzas are cooked in a custom-made wood-fire oven that was shipped from Naples prior to opening in 2016. It’s decorated with tiling to mimic the Italian flag and weighs nearly three tonnes. Once heated to 450 degrees, it cooks a pizza in 50 seconds flat.

Hand-made gnocchi and pasta are also on the menu, with ingredients sourced from Rocky’s Fruit and Vegies on Chapel Street or imported from Italy, such as most of the cheese and cured meats. Try the panzerotti fritti – deep-fried pizza dough topped with cheese, a dish that’s somewhat similar to the Hungarian hangover cure, lángos.

There’s a long list of Italian wines to match against your meal, and a decent selection of cocktails.