Like its siblings Top Paddock and The Kettle Black, Higher Ground pushes the boundaries of what we understand the cafe experience to be. There’s blue swimmer crab Benedict with caviar on the breakfast menu. There are small plates including Hiramasa kingfish, smoked salmon caviar and crisp brussels sprouts. Waiters are dressed smartly in uniformed shirts; long hair tied back.

Formerly a power station, the space’s layout and atmosphere is inspired by Ace Hotel and Soho House in London – boutique hotels with an all-day feeling that goes from morning to night. The dining room ceilings are 15 metres high and the space floods with natural light during the day. There’s a long, stainless-steel bar for brewing coffee and unusual teas, and for pouring wine and cocktails. The upstairs level – which comes with its own barista station – is an unhurried lounge to read, work or eat a meal in.