Kanteen is an indoor-outdoor experience, with heavy-duty, clear plastic flap walls to let the light in and keep the cold out, without losing the view over a bulrush bend of the Yarra River. Huge bar heaters combat the draft in winter and open sides let the breeze in for warmer months.

At this recycled amenities block, kids roam, dogs lap at water bowls and blue-cheese cauliflower soup wafts pungent notes across the granite and wood share-tables.

Breakfast is the go here, with baked Spanish eggs and black sticky rice regular favourites. Lunch turns out some pides and it’s hard to walk by the selection of cakes, slices and biscuits.

Move past the fact that it used to be a public loo and enjoy the idyllic riverside setting.