Jacques Reymond, wife Kathy and three of their four children are behind L’Hôtel Gitan – something more relaxed and approachable than what Reymond is traditionally known for.

The food leans slightly more towards French than at Bistro Gitan. On the fixed menu there’s nibble-sized dishes such as croquettes, prosciutto, boudin noir and boudin blanc, as well as more substantial items – steak tartare, duck magret and Niçoise salad, for example.

There’s plenty of Aussie talent on the wine list in the form of sauvignon blanc, cabernet and shiraz, but largely, the list is given over to imports and light, savoury varieties such as pinot, grenache and mencia.

Whether you’re sitting in the booking-ready bistro, on the bar stools up front which cater for walk-ins, or outside on timber banquettes, the attentive staff never feels far away.

The kitchen is enclosed by an intricately tiled main bar and thick brass bulkheads which enclose the kitchen.

The tap list tops out at four – ranging from Carlton Draught to Custard & Co. Cider. This is the Reymond idea of a pub. It’s more about fostering the pop-in, pop-out approach, without abandoning the flair where it counts.