Six years after Lune’s first shop opened in Elwood, and three years after the operation moved to an expansive Fitzroy warehouse (complete with hour-long queues), the rocket touched down in the CBD, doubling production.

The staff here shapes 450 batches of croissants per week – aka 18,000 and 20,000 of the shatteringly crisp and buttery elastic beauties. There’s minimal equipment in the brutalist concrete space, so all the raw production is done in Fitzroy’s temperature-controlled workspace (known as “the cube”), before being transferred to the city for baking.

The small, low-ceilinged shop is two steps below street level, giving it a “bunker feel”, and is reminiscent of Lune HQ’s intensely theatrical design and layout where you can watch chefs roll dough by hand. There are no tables, just polished concrete benches to stand and linger over a pastry and a good coffee.

The menu is short and sweet – a condensed version of Fitzroy’s – with plain, chocolate, ham and Gruyere, and almond croissants, as well as lemon-curd cruffins. For Lune’s famed experimental flavours (spiced cauliflower, or macadamia frangipane with a salted-caramel seam), you’ll have to head north.