Madonna Electric is a bold and maximalist pizzeria serving truly singular pizza. Co-owner John Tummino – who runs the joint with his high school pal Rob Johnstone – favours thin, light, crisp bases cooked in an electric, rather than woodfired, oven. Here, they’re made from 00 flour, water, salt, oil and baker’s yeast, fermented for 48–72 hours. The results are radically different to the puffy, charry, floppy Neapolitan pizzas most common in Melbourne.

Toppings are equally individual. The Lucia Mia is sautéed leek, gorgonzola, riced potato and smoked salt. The cheekily named Ma Va Fa … L’Americano pairs mozzarella with salami, jalapenos and house spicy honey. And This Saseech swaps sugo for cannellini bean paste, plus cotechino sausage, red onion and pickled peppercorns. Hawaiian tragics are sorted with a pizza of smoked ham, caramelised pineapple and cracked pepper. Add a crust dipper like salsa verde or gorgonzola sauce if you have a serious aversion to plain bread.

The selection of aperitivi and cocktails are just as playful. The signature Me Me Me spritz is an instant classic, with its fine balance of amaretto, cherry liqueur and ginger beer. The similarly refreshing Hugo in Brunswick features moscato, elderflower, mint and prosecco. But if you really want to commit to the theme, order a Saint Mary’s Veil: Melbourne Gin Company gin, Cointreau and blue curacao topped with sweet cream.

The Virgin Mary up the back, illuminated by pink neon, is the restaurant’s most striking feature. That’s saying something given the elaborate Franco Cozzo furniture and the walls crammed with kitschy plates and portraits.