Matsu: A Four-Seat Kaiseki Experience Bridging Korean Roots and Japanese Tradition

Hidden in plain sight in Footscray, Matsu is a rare gem — not just for its size (just four seats), but for the precision, seasonality, and warmth infused into every moment. Behind it are Hansol Lee and Elly Hong, partners in life and business, who have turned a minimalist dining room into one of Melbourne’s most intimate and memorable culinary experiences.

A Story Told Through Kaiseki

Lee’s journey began in Korea and deepened in Melbourne, where he honed his skills at Kenzan—one of the city’s most revered Japanese restaurants. Over ten years, including five dedicated to perfecting tempura, he mastered the quiet precision of kaiseki. “Matsu” is the Japanese word for pine tree—the same meaning as “Hansol” in Korean—an elegant symbol of cultural connection and longevity.

The format is simple and uncompromising:

• Two seatings per night,

• Four nights a week,

• No menu changes or dietary adjustments.

Bookings are released monthly at midnight on the final day—and vanish almost as quickly.

The Meal

Each service is an unfolding of time, season, and craft.
A recent dinner began with a Tasmanian oyster crowned with Siberian caviar, followed by a delicate chawanmushi cradling a prawn. Then came a seasonal platter: cured octopus, Yarra Valley salmon roe, and smoked kazunoko, dramatically revealed from beneath a glass cloche.

Next: an impeccable progression of nigiri — from tenderised squid and duckfish, to otoro (tuna belly) and blowtorched A9 wagyu. The main course nodded to Lee’s Korean heritage: rice cooked in rock lobster stock, garnished with crispy seaweed and spicy mentaiko.

The Experience

Lee prepares, plates, and presents every dish himself — but never loses the personal touch. Warm, focused, and conversational, he chats with guests while working just metres away. Sake pairings are thoughtfully curated, and elevate the experience for those lucky enough to score a reservation.

Matsu isn’t just a meal — it’s a story told across cultures, ingredients, and seasons. One of Melbourne’s most exclusive bookings, and one of its most heartfelt.