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This bar and restaurant inside Curtin House is all about agave-based spirits – but the food's no afterthought. Baja-style rockling tacos, achiote chicken quesadillas and Mexican doughnuts with salted espresso dulce de leche all go dangerously well with a margarita or the spicy riff on a pina colada.

If you’re athletic enough to make it up the infamous Curtin House stairs, we think you’ve earned something substantial from the dinner or bar menu at Mesa Verde. It’s always a good idea, actually. The daunting tequila list shouldn’t be tackled on an empty stomach.

Start with some oysters or tortilla chips before moving onto a few rounds of tacos made with El Cielo tortillas. Choices might include goat barbacoa or the cult favourite of Baja-style rockling with burnt pickled cabbage and crema ranchera.

Larger mains include achiote chicken quesadillas, a 450-gram bone-in rib eye with chimichurri and guajillo butter, and The Tlayuda – a crisp, flattened tortilla topped with grilled corn, black beans, squash, Oaxacan cheese and salsa macha.

There are also side dishes and desserts, though you can’t leave without a trio of Mexican doughnuts topped with salted espresso dulce de leche and whipped sour cream.

Like many Mexican joints, Mesa understands the importance of atmosphere. A rotating cast of DJs keep the mood festive under the warm, Mark Douglass-designed pendant lighting; and the daily happy hour (Tuesday to Saturday) keeps things lubricated with $10 Margaritas from 4pm. Mesa Verde also hosts regular mezcal masterclasses, so you can dive headfirst into the style and learn a thing or two while you’re at it.

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