Connewarre, both a large coastal lake and adjacent suburb, is set between Barwon Heads and Torquay, about 90 minutes’ drive from Melbourne. It’s also where you’ll find Moonah, a tiny 12-seat fine diner opened in late 2020.

The maximum group size is four people, and spots are in high demand. It’s wise to plan about three months in advance if you want to dine here. The restaurant releases bookings three months in advance on the first day of each month.

Founder and chef Tobin Kent was previously chef de partie at the nearby Brae, and his multi-course set menus reflect the same ambition and refinement of the world-recognised diner.

On a given day you might dine on hand-dived sea urchin with preserved orange and midnight pearl potatoes; crayfish tartare with fermented tomatillo and kakai pumpkin seeds; 21-day-dry-aged Great Ocean duck with salt-marsh vegetables; and walnut ice-cream with wild apples and saltbush. All with panoramic views over the surrounding scrub and billabong.