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There’s broad appeal at this south-side boozer. It’s known for its crowd-friendly boozy brunches. But there’s also a 16-seat chef’s table for more formal celebrations, and three kinds of woodfired steak for a midweek feed.

With a nod to the St Kilda of old (a little grunge, a little cool), Newmarket Hotel combines these elements with its own urban style from the group behind the Middle Park Hotel, the Albert Park Hotel and the Royal Saxon in Richmond. Group director Julian Gerner has again employed the rich skills of consultant chef Paul Wilson and Mark Healy from 6 Degrees architects. Here you will find a striking space of indoor and outdoor dining areas and a chef’s table for up to 16 people, which cleverly uses light and space with a modern retro feel.

The menu focuses on Californian flavours that are conducive to a warm Australian climate. Think soft-shell crab tacos, cured hams and rare breed roasts from the wood-fired oven. No wine or beer is served in bottles, with four reds, four whites, a sparkling and a rose all available by the carafe along with 17 beer taps serving some interesting brews. The consistency of this group and their collaborative nous and style means St Kilda has a new/old watering hole.

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