Set among a clutch of dingy takeaway shops along Swan Street, Noir well and truly lives up to its name: step inside and you’re met with a minimalist design, dim lighting and black-painted walls offset by fresh white lilies at the bar counter. Yet the place exudes a warm and cosy ambiance, which makes it an easy spot to while away an evening.

Head chef and owner Peter Roddy hails from Ireland and has a few Michelin star-shaped notches on his belt, having worked for Gordon Ramsey’s Amarylliss in Glasgow and Michel Roux Jr’s Le Gavroche in London, and done a stint in New Zealand.

His menu deals exclusively in the kind of fare you’d encounter in a southern French bistro, reimagining it for Melbourne diners. To that end, expect plenty of seafood – including oysters three ways and poisson du jour such as seared swordfish with roasted brussels sprouts. For dessert, it might be salted caramel cheesecake with white chocolate mousse and almond florentine.

With the exception of the bread – courtesy of Matt Forbes at Cobb Lane – everything is made in-house and hinges on seasonality.

If you prefer the element of surprise, a tasting menu is available (with or without matching wines) and is geared towards group dining.