After winning us over with her homey and seasonal Sicilian fare at Rosa’s Kitchen, Rosa Mitchell has again joined with partners David Mackintosh and Peter Bartholomew to launch Rosa’s Canteen in the heart of the city’s legal district.

With a mix of timber and terrazzo flooring, canvas-lined banquettes and lovely first-floor views across leafy treetops, skyscrapers and the dome of the nearby Supreme Court, it’s a calm and understated space. And with hospo pro Ari Vlassopoulos (ex-Hellenic Republic, Bar Nacional) leading the front-of-house team, you can expect exceptional service.

Including antipasti, pasta and a short list of mains, Mitchell’s menu is a study in elegant and rustic simplicity. Forget wanky imports and “it” ingredients, here it’s all about produce that is totally singing – which might mean late-summer tomatoes in a Caprese salad, or a fragrant fig tart with fruit picked from a friend’s tree. Much of the produce is grown at the Mitchell family’s property in Yandoit and in the gardens of Rosa’s friends and family.

Like her food, Mitchell’s modus operandi is typically unpretentious – she has been gliding from table to table greeting her customers. Whether you’re a serial restaurant-hopper or a Supreme Court judge on your lunch hour, Mitchell is like the honorary Italian mama we wish we all had.