Since opening its doors in 2003, Shira Nui has garnered a loyal following of diners at its understated premises in Glen Waverley. Whether it is the humble service, the stunningly fresh sushi or the fun of watching head chef and owner Hiro Nishikura blowtorch salmon behind the bar that brings patrons back, it is clear that Shira Nui has found the formula for drawing hungry crowds.

Coming to Australia in the 1980s, Hiro-san has a 13-year apprenticeship from Japan slung casually under his belt and perhaps this is the key to his and wife Susan’s success: a fundamental understanding of what true Japanese sushi bar dining is all about.

Seats book up quickly at the omakase bar, where Hiro and his trusty apprentices will create favourites like tuna belly or baked oyster sushi accompanied with the chef’s instruction to eat that particular dish “with soy sauce” or “without”. Table seating is also available for a la carte with the menu featuring most of the usual suspects found at a fine Japanese eatery.