Steve Chan is all about laid-back, home-style hospitality. At Sleepy’s, you’ll spot the owner-chef in the open kitchen, cooking next-generation Chinese-Australian dishes and chatting with customers over the pass. At his first venue, the self-taught chef draws on his Aussie identity and mixed Chinese heritage – his mother is from a town outside Shanghai, and his dad hails from Guangzhou. The result is a forward-thinking mixed-bag menu that’s familiar to third-culture kids.

During the day, find coffee alongside signature toasties featuring mi goreng noodles and kimchi. The customisable congee (which can also be made vegan) satisfies rice-based starch cravings.

By night, the lights dim and the space turns into a cosy wine bar. To start, order Asian-leaning snacks like anchovy-topped youtiao (Chinese doughnut), two-bite braised beef sandos, and crisp nian gao (rice cakes) tinged with sweet soy sauce. There are also larger, share-friendly plates like butter-laden Hokkien noodles with doubanjiang and parmesan. And Chan’s particularly proud to serve his grandma’s lion’s head meatballs atop Hokkien noodles. The dish, a new take on spaghetti and meatballs, has become a crowd favourite.

The food is backed by Chan’s curated wine list, which has included drops by Victorian producers like Momento Mori, Patrick Sullivan and Brave New Wine. Plus, punchy cocktails and mezcal.