Like so many great Melbourne treasures, this one is hidden away and eschews any notion of gaudy self-promotion. The only clue to its existence is a retro, neon yellow ‘Cheese’ sign suspended from the Spring Street Grocer’s ceiling, with a suggestive arrow pointing downwards.

A descent down the orange spiral staircase into the beautifully tiled, basement-level cellar feels somewhat like you’ve wandered into a mid-century Italian subway station, except the lighting is better, the folks are friendlier and the air is pervaded by the rich and pungent aromas of deliciously ripe cheeses.

Cheeses here are seasonal and aged on-site, so that they’re sold at the point of optimal ripeness. You won’t see pre-cut brie sweating under cling-film and customers certainly won’t have any barriers (physical or otherwise) between themselves and the product.

Far from snooty, the cellar is a place where people can feel comfortable, curious and excited to discover new things about specialist local and international cheeses.