St Martin’s is a taste of the vibrant Brighton beach bathing boxes in a suburban setting. Designer Claire Larritt-Evans blended sandy wood furniture and turquoise fittings with brightly hued umbrellas to create the breezy, unhurried eatery.

It’s not the only baby of husband and wife Jim Marinis and Mary-Jane Daffy (former owners of Glovers Station and Little Tommy Tucker). The couple welcomed their first born a mere six weeks before St Martin’s opened in October 2016; selling the larger Glovers Station to create something slower paced.

You won’t find a smashed avocado or French toast here. The kitchen team, led by co-owner Brett Hobbs and head chef Lachlan Williams, is focused on food with a difference. Slow-braised beans come adorned with a cloud of mozzarella and a dollop of intense corn puree; and fried eggs are paired with sticky braised beef short rib, drenched in chilli caramel. A rotating weekday lunch special keeps the team sharp.

Anthony Hart (an ex-Vue de Monde pastry chef) and Marika Pluta (ex-Burch & Purchese) keep the cabinet stocked with intricate desserts. Clark St Coffee Roasters supplies the coffee beans. Even the simplest aspects are polished – St Martin’s goes through 20 kilograms of CO2 every month to keep sparkling water on tap.