Whether it’s biodynamic New World booze, or traditional Grand Cru from the ancient vineyards of Burgundy, it makes no difference to the folks at The Alps.

What matters to owners Lyndon Kubis, Renton Carlyle and Mark Hopkinson is that their wines taste of where they’re from. They concentrate on producers who make wines with honesty and transparency, where clearly representing terroir is favoured over style.

This comes together across a collection of around 400 bottles, 20 of which are available by the glass. There’s a particular focus on the Jura, Savoie and Burgundy, regions at the foothills of the European Alps – hence the name.

Alps is the fourth venue from the collective, which also owns Toorak Cellars, Milton Wine Shop and Romulus & Remus. The Commercial Road space is a former milk bar redesigned by iamnotmason. Its enviable portfolio includes Touchwood and Tall Timber. Apart from ripping out the plaster to expose brickwork and fireplaces, the bar’s furniture and fittings are all made from cypress pine and steel.

Besides fermented grape juice, Alps has a selection of beer in cans or on tap, which includes Panhead’s XPA, Sample’s Gold Ale and a blonde ale from Mont Blanc. Bar snacks are limited, but everything they need to be: cheese, charcuterie and gravlax.

Wine geeks will be pleased: each month there are informal masterclasses around a barbeque, and premium pours from rare and vintage wines via Coravin.