It used to be a commercial truck garage. These days it’s The Commercial Bakery, tucked into Little Collins Street on the corner of Gills Alley as it is, you’d be hard pressed to find a more Melbourne experience.

For one, it’s brought to you by Con Christopoulos, the man who skips about town setting up always great restaurants and bars (think Siglo, Syracuse and Journal Canteen), so there’s no doubt that the pedigree is right.

Then there’s the location. With a door that’s not quite on the hubbub of Little Collins, we’ve heard the odd story of people walking by for months before finally noticing it’s there. But once you do spot it, you’ll wonder how anyone could miss the constant flow of people clutching freshly baked goods.

Perch on a street-side stool and peer through the open counterweight window. From here you’ll see the lever coffee machines churning out espressos from early in the morning and be seduced by the daily changing display of filled baguettes and flaky fresh pastry.

Inside you’ll find a longish, narrow space with polished cement floors an industrial fan and light fittings. Further back, the space opens out into the restaurant Gills Diner – but that’s for another time.