Growing out of a catering business and events group, Tommy Collins, The Little Ox in Brighton is a light and energetic addition to its suburban surrounds. The team of owners (Ben Avramides, Tommy McIntosh, Luke Holt and Simon Winfield) have created a welcoming, nostalgic feel by making full use of the humming cafe’s former life as a milk bar.

The Little Ox barista brews an excellent house blend using various beans from India, Costa Rica and Sumatra, thanks to Red Star in Port Melbourne.

The food supplied is well-cooked cafe fare with a menu that crosses breakfast and lunch. Examples are the beetroot, cured salmon and rosti; Mexican eggs; grilled polenta; and the Nicoise salad with white anchovies.

For sweets: house-made cakes, pastries and biscuits sit in a neat glass cabinet on the counter, and brownies, homemade marshmallow, blood orange cupcakes and shortbread fill out the selection.

Signposted by canary-yellow stools and a black and white striped awning out front, The Little Ox is a bright way to start the day.