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Locals get misty-eyed when you mention the Napier, such is the respect for this backstreet corner pub. The menu is pure comfort, and the interior is full of pressed metal and Australiana kitsch. It’s the kind of local every suburb needs.

The Napier Hotel is one of those rare pubs that possess a warm, inviting exterior glow most common to its legendary British counterparts. The Napier caters to every pub goer, with its bustling front bar, its open, fire-lit pool lounge, its cosy rear dining rooms and a cool bricked courtyard for the warmer months.

The food is great. An ever-present specials board of around ten internationally-flavoured dishes complements the Napier’s extensive set menu. Words like ragu, confit and rillette help make us all feel a little spoilt for the price, but head for the peppered roo fillet if you’re a first timer. The bogan burger is a legendary concoction of steak, chicken schnitzel, caramelised onions, cheese, pineapple, beetroot, egg, potato cake, bacon, lettuce and tomato, with wedges and salad on the side.

The booze is what you’d expect from a local Fitzroy pub; a strong selection of local draughts are the the focus, with a reasonable wine list and bottled beer range to satisfy those that want something different.

In an age of rapid gentrification, the Napier Hotel remains a proud bastion of true Fitzroy culture.

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