Dark tones and dim lighting create a moody, intimate bar at the front of The Ugly Duckling. A heritage-listed glass atrium bathes the back room in light. It’s like drinking in a beer garden minus the potential for bad weather to ruin the fun, or a greenhouse without the heavy humidity.

Soothing tones of blonde wood, blue and white are used in the back. It creates the kind of calm atmosphere usually reserved for a yoga studio. It’s a venue by locals, for locals, that aims to emulate the feeling of entertaining at home (where home has tattooed lads on call to pour Negronis).

The cocktail list respects the classics, such as Corpse Reviver #2 and Singapore Sling, but also moves with the seasons on its more creative numbers. In summer, expect plenty of fresh, fruity mixes. In winter, darker, more robust cocktails.

The wine list offers many Victorian and European drops by the glass where you’d normally have to stretch for the whole bottle. Bar food includes cheese, salumi, smoked almonds and chocolate.

If you’re hungry for dinner before or afterwards, Fonda Mexican, Meatmother, Kong and Jimmy Grants are all a short walk away.