There’s a pattern at Maliq Deane’s cafes. From Sardi (since sold) and Muharam, through to the younger 1809, they’ve all had something of a split personality.

Trei Cafe arrived in 2015 bearing the same you-can-please-everyone ethos. It knows that some days are for superfood bowls and others are for banoffee French toast with dulche le leche and cookie crumbs. So it offers both.

The usual brunch options are executed well and kept interesting – the smashed avo features haloumi and roasted dukkah; and pulled lamb comes with crumbed eggplant, harissa mayo and a bright beetroot bun.

Other standouts include spiced cauliflower fritters with cumin labneh and gluten-, dairy- and refined-sugar-free coconut hotcakes that taste nowhere near as healthy as they sound. They’re a generous serving of fluffy goodness topped with creamy vanilla and nutmeg ice-cream, coconut nectar and pistachios.

There’s some choice with the coffee, too. In addition to the usual blend, local roaster Niccolo provides a rotating single origin. There are also protein smoothies and matcha lattes with almond milk.

The fit-out is characterised by soft, pretty colours and copper light fittings.