Tulum: A New Chapter for Modern Turkish Cuisine
Coskun Uysal β who developed his craft in Istanbul and London, as well as at renowned Melbourne fine diners Attica and Vue de Monde β opened his first restaurant, Tulum, in 2016 to almost instant acclaim. His bold, modern interpretation of regional Turkish cuisine quickly earned the Balaclava venue a place on numerous βbest ofβ lists.
Flexible Dining, Rich Traditions
In 2019, Uysal decided it was time for Tulum to evolve. The restaurant is no longer just a destination for special occasions. The previously mandatory set menu has been replaced with a more flexible, share-friendly offering. A standout among the cold mezze is a chilled toasted almond soup, paired with pressed kohlrabi, pickled grapes, and vivid green olive oil.
Seafood Stars and Childhood Memories
Seafood is the highlight of the small plates. Sweet Clarence River prawns are matched with the restaurantβs namesake cheese (a soft, slightly crumbly white goatβs cheese), olive dust, yoghurt crisps, and a sauce inspired by Uysalβs favourite childhood snack, tarhana soup. His mother made it using a fermented mix of grains, yoghurt and capsicums, dried on the rooftop of their family home.
Hearty Mains and Inspired Desserts
More substantial dishes include lamb rump with carrot, pickled apricot and Turkish coffee, or beef short rib served with smoky eggplant and date jam. A number of dishes are enhanced by a superior tahini made from sesame seeds toasted over an open flame. It also features in tahin, a subtle ice cream paired with cumin-spiced caramel and a slightly bitter eggplant meringue.
A Bigger, Warmer Space
Tulum 2.0 has nearly doubled in size, now seating 52 guests indoors, with another 25 sunny spots available on the footpath outside. Yet the service remains as relaxed as ever. As each dish arrives at the Victorian ash dining tables, staff explain the story behind it.
Designed with Heart
The new fit-out is the work of architecture firm Troupe Studio. Exposed brick now replaces the previous stark white interiors, though the signature Portuguese handcrafted turquoise fish-scale tiles remain. Additional touches include dark leather, marble and slate, softened by cushions adorned with Anatolian motifs throughout the space.